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	<title>Comments on: The digression continues</title>
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	<link>http://battlegames.wordpress.com/2008/07/23/the-digression-continues/</link>
	<description>Ongoing thoughts from the Battlegames Editor</description>
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		<title>By: Marc</title>
		<link>http://battlegames.wordpress.com/2008/07/23/the-digression-continues/#comment-254</link>
		<dc:creator>Marc</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 16:41:13 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Henry - I must admit that I assumed everyone painted cuffs that way. I learnt that with French Naps and their red cuffs, white piping, blue flap and red piping combination. To get a sensible red it needed a white base, and as you have found, it is easier to paint up to a line, than to paint the line itself (rather like the black undercoat technique). Now there&#039;s a point (soapbox time) - it steams me to see the black undercoat method attributed to Dallimore - I first saw it when I was a nipper in White Dwarf (7?) as the Sable Brush or some such. Ok, rant over. So with French, I do a white band, then red, then a white flap, red, then blue inner flap. Hard to describe, easier to do.

Interesting to hear your comments on 20&#039;s. As you know, I switched from 15s to 20s (plastics though) a while back, principally because I found the 15&#039;s took as long to paint as bigger figures, wwere harder, and did not look like it when done. The 1/72 figures occupy more space, have a bigger volume, and work better with my poor old eyes. The same trend can be seen with 25s/28s/40s etc. And, the killer for me, plastics in 1/72 are significantly less expensive than 15s in metal, and I get a bigger style game.

Good luck with the painting - although I think the game must have happened last weekend?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Henry &#8211; I must admit that I assumed everyone painted cuffs that way. I learnt that with French Naps and their red cuffs, white piping, blue flap and red piping combination. To get a sensible red it needed a white base, and as you have found, it is easier to paint up to a line, than to paint the line itself (rather like the black undercoat technique). Now there&#8217;s a point (soapbox time) &#8211; it steams me to see the black undercoat method attributed to Dallimore &#8211; I first saw it when I was a nipper in White Dwarf (7?) as the Sable Brush or some such. Ok, rant over. So with French, I do a white band, then red, then a white flap, red, then blue inner flap. Hard to describe, easier to do.</p>
<p>Interesting to hear your comments on 20&#8217;s. As you know, I switched from 15s to 20s (plastics though) a while back, principally because I found the 15&#8217;s took as long to paint as bigger figures, wwere harder, and did not look like it when done. The 1/72 figures occupy more space, have a bigger volume, and work better with my poor old eyes. The same trend can be seen with 25s/28s/40s etc. And, the killer for me, plastics in 1/72 are significantly less expensive than 15s in metal, and I get a bigger style game.</p>
<p>Good luck with the painting &#8211; although I think the game must have happened last weekend?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: battlegames</title>
		<link>http://battlegames.wordpress.com/2008/07/23/the-digression-continues/#comment-252</link>
		<dc:creator>battlegames</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:06:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://battlegames.wordpress.com/?p=77#comment-252</guid>
		<description>Newline Designs 20mm.

Their site is at http://www.newlinedesigns.co.uk/ . Currently, the site is a bit of a train wreck - but I&#039;m going to be completely redesigning it for them over the next few months.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Newline Designs 20mm.</p>
<p>Their site is at <a href="http://www.newlinedesigns.co.uk/" rel="nofollow">http://www.newlinedesigns.co.uk/</a> . Currently, the site is a bit of a train wreck &#8211; but I&#8217;m going to be completely redesigning it for them over the next few months.</p>
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		<title>By: Milton</title>
		<link>http://battlegames.wordpress.com/2008/07/23/the-digression-continues/#comment-251</link>
		<dc:creator>Milton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:32:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://battlegames.wordpress.com/?p=77#comment-251</guid>
		<description>What make are the figures? They look very dynamic</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What make are the figures? They look very dynamic</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Steve-the-Wargamer</title>
		<link>http://battlegames.wordpress.com/2008/07/23/the-digression-continues/#comment-250</link>
		<dc:creator>Steve-the-Wargamer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 11:54:46 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Looking forward to seeing these guys on Saturday!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Looking forward to seeing these guys on Saturday!</p>
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		<title>By: Tyler Provick</title>
		<link>http://battlegames.wordpress.com/2008/07/23/the-digression-continues/#comment-249</link>
		<dc:creator>Tyler Provick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 00:59:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://battlegames.wordpress.com/?p=77#comment-249</guid>
		<description>Strangely, I find rank and file much easier to paint. The trick, I find, is to break down the job into small portions. I mount my miniatures on popsicle sticks, and will often go down the line, painting only 1-2 brush strokes, all at the same angle. Then, change the angle and do 2-3 strokes of the next bit. In this way I&#039;m not constantly moving my arm holding the miniatures, and the small movements of my painting hand become more precise.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Strangely, I find rank and file much easier to paint. The trick, I find, is to break down the job into small portions. I mount my miniatures on popsicle sticks, and will often go down the line, painting only 1-2 brush strokes, all at the same angle. Then, change the angle and do 2-3 strokes of the next bit. In this way I&#8217;m not constantly moving my arm holding the miniatures, and the small movements of my painting hand become more precise.</p>
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